Shoaling of periodic waves over barred-beaches in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank | Academic Article individual record
abstract

A numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow theory is used to calculate changes in local properties of periodic waves shoaling over barred-beaches (wave height, celerity, front-to-back asymmetry). Results show that strongly nonlinear wave decomposition phenomena occur in a modulation region beyond the bars. These are analyzed in detail and discussed in the paper.

author list (cited authors)
Grilli, S. T., & Horrillo, J.
publication date
1999